Basic Water Dragon Care Sheet

[Pooka]

Here is a basic care sheet from the good folks over at reptileforums.com, feel free to drop in and loo at it in it's orginal form on there site by visiting:reptileforums.com/care_sheets/lizards/water_dragon.htm

Water Dragon Care Sheet

Common Name: Chinese Water Dragon

Latin name: Physignathus cocincinus

Native to: Indo-Australia and Southeast Asia

Size: Adult males can reach up to three feet in length. Females are slightly smaller.

Life span: Water dragons have lived to more than 18 years in captivity

General appearance: The Chinese water dragon (P. cocincinus) is generally green with vertical slanted stripes that run across the body and a white or yellow belly. These water dragons also possess colorful throats that can range in color from a pale yellow to peach or even pink. One of the most distinctive features are the well developed nuchal crests. The spikes are generally larger in males than in females. Males also possess prominent mid-sagittal crests.

The Australian water dragon (P. lesueurii) has the same body shape as its Chinese cousin. It is mostly brown in color. The head is lighter in color with a bar extending past the eye. In females the head is slightly darker and lacks the contrast that males possess. Males also typically have a larger head and crest. The crest runs from the base of the head down to the end of the tail. The body also is marked with bands of light colored bands, giving and overall general banded look to the lizard. The throat and belly of the males is red while these areas are generally white or cream in females.

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: Young water dragons can start in a 10-gallon tank but will quickly outgrow this enclosure. Adult water dragons should be kept in an enclosure that is at least 4 feet by 3 feet. The larger the enclosure the better since too small of an enclosure can cause the water dragon to rub its snout until a bacterial infection occurs.

Temperature: Temperatures should be kept at 84° - 88° F during the day with a basking temperature of 90° to 95° F. Nighttime temperatures should be kept at 75° - 80° F.

Heat/Light: Water dragons require UVA and UVB light. This can be provided with various available fluorescent bulbs commercially available. The ambient temperature can be maintained with basking bulbs, infrared bulbs or ceramic emitters. There are now active UV bulbs now available on the market that also proved UVA/UVB light as well as heat.

Substrate: A variety of substrates can be used for water dragons. Sterilized potting soil can make for a very nice naturalistic enclosure but can be messy. Newspaper, paper towels, and indoor-outdoor carpeting can also be used and are easier to maintain. Cedar and pine wood shavings should be avoided due to toxicity concerns.

Environment: As their name suggests, water dragons should have ready access to a pool of water for soaking and swimming. These lizards also require high humidity and the enclosure should be maintained at 60% - 80% relative humidity. This will often require regular misting of the enclosure. Planted non-toxic plants in the enclosure can also help maintain the humidity levels required.

Diet: Water dragons are omnivorous. They can be fed crickets, mealworms, super worms, earthworms, mice, comets (common feeder goldfish), and day-old chicks. In addition to this they also require some greens and can be offered shredded romaine lettuce as well as other various greens such as mustard, dandelion and collard. Other vegetables such as yellow squash, sweet potato, parsnips, green beans and carrots can also be given. Some fruit such as strawberry, raspberry, blueberry banana, and various melons can also be provided.

Maintenance: The water in the enclosure should be changed daily unless a filtration system is used. If using filtration, a weekly water change should be performed. The enclosure should be spot cleaned daily and disinfected weekly. If using indoor/outdoor carpeting it is recommended to have at least two sets for ease of cleaning. This will allow you to simply swap the clean carpeting for the soiled so you may clean it. A 5% bleach solution is an excellent disinfectant. Be sure to thoroughly rinse the enclosure and carpeting before placing the dragon back.

[char]

Actually a wd can NEVER start in a 10 gallon tank. You will need a bigger one just to get started (50 gallons are good). Then you will need one at least 4x5x3 when it is full grown, or bigger if possible. They also need plenty of branches to climb on.

[Pooka]

Thanks Char
I agree 100% with you that 10 gallon is too small even for the first month or so of havieng a hatchling (trust me I know its what mine is in) she has about a 1, maybe 2 inches left before the tank is 1/2 her length (too small) she is already digging at the edges and ALWAYS wants to come out and free roam so I know its time to move up. In my opinion a starter tank for starting a new hatchling for 3 or 4 months should be at least a 20 or 40 gallon. Personally I would advocate just getting a 55 gallon or a decent sized reptarium or custom build somehting large right off the bat, it'll save time and money and your baby will appreciate it.

BTW we would like to have caresheets made by the members to pin up in this spot (instead of the borrowed ones we currently have) and info like this cage size issue are important. If your interested in volunteering to write a care sheet please wirte one up and submit it in this forum or to me in an email or PM and we will get it edited an posted up in place of this one.

Thanks for the catch char

[char]

I'll try to come up with a couple. I also have Leopard Gecko's and have my notebook for those also.

[Pooka]

char said:

I'll try to come up with a couple. I also have Leopard Gecko's and have my notebook for those also.

Great! Leos are one of the care sheets we are trying to come up with right now. I asked a mod on another forum if we could borrow there's as it was a very complete and accurate account but no one has gotten back with me yet.

[dragonlvr9]

wat if u just kept like 3 babies in a 10 gallon for like 1 week. like NEWLY HATCHED babies. would that work?

[DaremoAlpha]

As long as it is very temporary it is fine, but make sure they have a few extra hides in there so they can each have their own special spot too.

Don't leave them in such a small tank for long though.

[dragosmom]

www.geocities.com/dianedfisher/ChineseWaterDragonCareSheet.doc

I added a CWD Care Sheet to my website recently. Perhaps it will be of interest to new or potential CWD owners.

DM

[sctriathlete]

Here's a good one i found on lllreptile.com

they also have some for many other reptiles


Green Water Dragon
Physignathus cocincinus

Natural History Green water dragons, also known as Chinese water dragons, are beautiful lizards hailing from the lush rainforests of southeast Asia. These agile lizards are often found in trees and shrubs near bodies of water where they can quickly take refuge should they feel threatened.

Both males and females of this species are a gorgeous emerald green color, which in addition to being easily tamed, makes them an ideal alternative to the less suited green iguana. These are active lizards that will require a large amount of space, but those individuals willing to provide proper care will be rewarded with a stunning display of nature’s beauty.

Most larger specimens offered for sale in the United States are still of wild caught origin. However, as their popularity has continued to climb, so has the availability of captive hatched babies. Captive hatched babies are ideal, although with patience and hard work, even imported animals can adjust to captivity and make rewarding pets.

Size and Longevity

Males of this species are typically larger and have more intense coloration. Depending on the sex of the animal, average adult length is between 24 and 30 inches, with occasional specimens being slightly larger or smaller.

When provided with ample space, a varied diet, and proper lighting, green water dragons can easily live over a decade in captivity, with life spans approaching 15 years becoming more and more common.

Housing

When it comes to housing this species, cage size is the main factor to contend with. These lizards are very active and easily startled. As a result it is unfortunately quite common for this species to run repeatedly into the cage walls, resulting in sometimes severe injuries. Therefore, the rule of thumb for housing these animals to give them as much space as possible. No enclosure is too big for adult green water dragons.

A single hatchling may do alright in a 20 gallon terrarium for a short while, but a larger enclosure should be provided at the first signs of the animals seeming cramped. A single adult should be maintained in an enclosure with a footprint of no less than 4 feet by 2 feet, and at least 3 feet tall. Enclosures twice this size are more appropriate, and will certainly provide a happier existence for your lizard.

Glass enclosures can be used, as can commercially produced reptile cages or custom enclosures. Opaque walls are preferred over glass, as these lizards are less likely to run into the walls if they cannot see through them. In any case, choose a cage built to withstand high humidity and one that is properly ventilated to avoid stagnation of the air.

Heating and Lighting

Water dragons are tropical, and should be kept warm all year long. Daytime ambient temperatures should be in the mid 80’s with access to both warmer and cooler zones. A localized, elevated basking spot should be provided and should reach 95 to 100 degrees during the hottest part of the day. Nighttime temperatures can safely drop into the upper 70’s.

Heat may be provided with heat bulbs, ceramic heat emitters, heating pads, or infrared bulbs. While heat pads, red bulbs, and ceramic heating can be utilized 24 hours a day, traditional heat lights must be shut off at night to provide a healthy day/night cycle.

In addition to ample heat, water dragons require good lighting to thrive. The lights you use should not only keep the enclosure very bright during the day, but should also provide necessary full spectrum light. Fluorescent bulbs designed specifically for reptile use are highly recommended. These bulbs will provide your lizards with the vital ultra violet light they need in order to metabolize calcium and properly grow.

Substrate and Furnishings

The substrate used in the green water dragon habitat should be one that will encourage the high humidity levels that these lizards prefer. Reptile (orchid) bark, cypress mulch, or any number of coconut husk products are ideal choices. Avoid using any type of overly drying substrate such as sand or paper based products.

In addition to the primary substrate selected, green sphagnum moss is highly recommended as well. Adding this moss to portions of the enclosure will not only add to the naturalistic appearance of the enclosure, but will also serve as valuable source of humidity when misted regularly.

Multiple perches of varying diameters and heights should be provided for these agile climbers. In addition to branches, large amounts of live and artificial plants are highly recommended to recreate the feel of a lush forest. As mentioned before, these animals can startle easily, and will feel much more secure and less stressed if they have ample foliage to hide within.

Water and Humidity

As their common name suggests, these lizards love water. They should have access to a large pool that is plenty big enough for them to soak in completely. They will not only drink from and swim in this water source, but it will also aid greatly in raising the humidity levels in the cage.

The entire enclosure should be kept at a constantly high level of humidity. Use of proper substrates, large water receptacle, and green moss will help, but regular misting with water will be required. The cage should never become soggy, rather it should be nearly dry before misting again. Typically two heavy sprays per day will suffice, but this frequency may be higher or lower depending on ambient humidity in your home, temperature, and ventilation of the enclosure.

Automated misting systems are available for use in reptile habitats and these are highly recommended if you are not around during the day to spray the enclosure by hand. These devices are equipped with timers so that you can have your enclosure misted regularly throughout the day with no work on your part.

Nutrition

Water dragons are primarily insectivorous, and the majority of their diet should consist of appropriately sized crickets, mealworms, wax worms, and roaches. Feeder fish and small mice can be offered as well, but the emphasis should be on variety. In addition to live prey, many water dragons will readily consume fruit flavored baby food or over-ripened fruits such as banana and papaya.

These fast growing lizards will require dietary supplements to prevent metabolic disorders or stunted growth. Choose a supplement that contains calcium and vitamin D3, in addition to a reptile multivitamin. For baby and juvenile lizards, lightly dust all food items at every feeding. Larger animals that have passed their rapid growth phase can be supplemented less often, perhaps once or twice a week.

Green water dragons are active lizards with an equally active metabolism. As such, they should be offered food daily (or every second day for adults). A general rule of thumb is to put as much food into the enclosure as will be consumed in a few hours. Avoid allowing your enclosure to become overrun with uneaten feeder insects.

Handling

Once your lizards have been given time to adjust to their new environment, one can begin brief handling sessions with water dragons in an effort to desensitize them to human contact. While these animals are rarely aggressive, they will be jumpy and nervous at first. Gentle and consistent handling is required, but within a few months your water dragon should begin to calm down noticeably.

Slow, confident movements will be less threatening to these lizards, and the goal is to make handling them a positive experience for both the keeper and the animal itself. Short, frequent handling sessions are ideal, as they are less stressful for the animal, and more likely to reinforce good behavior in this species.

[bigtone]

hello there...just bin readin all the posts on ere an im gettin loads of much needed info,my female,tiamat is gettin a right greedy pregnant dog..lol...but shes lookin good i must say,she eats straight from my hand an isnt the slightest bit scared of me,me other 1 is gettin braver now an he to is eatin while sittin on me lap..i must say that wen i 1st got em i was bit scared of pickin em up,whitch is funny really coz im jus under 6foot an 15stone..lol..but im gettin there now an pick em up all the time