Heat??

[spike]

what should the heat in a cage be?? at both ends??

[Pooka]

From what I understand Aussie Dragons thrive under the same heat conditiona regular Green Water Dragon would. So, 84-88 on the cool end and 90-95 under the basking spot would be a good place to start.

[spike]

ok...if i the basking spot about 10 inches under the heat lamp, what watt should it be?? 100 or 150??

[Pooka]

That'll depend on how warm or cool the room the tank is in is. It'll also depend on the size of the tank. What I would do is setup your basking spot and the light hood (with no bulb). Get 2 thermometers (preferabley digital but they do not have to be), set 1 thermometer on the cool end and 1 thermemter under the basking area.

If the tank is 30 gallon or under start with probably a 75 watt spot bulb (the cone shaped kind used as floodlights) or 100 watt normal incandescent (normla round household kind). Plug it into the hood and let it warm the tank for about 1/2 an hour then check temps. If your basking spot is too cool, you gonna need the next higher wattage, which is a 100 watt spot or 150 normal incandescent, if it's too warm you may have to raise the light away from the basking spot till you have it right.

Just be aware that it may take 1 or 2 kinds of bulbs to get it right and that a thermometer is your best friend when setting up this gradient for the first time in a new dragons home. I'm sure you have done this before but it's always nice to get a quick refresher when you can. I hope that at least the outlines aboue work for you.

If there is another way anyone else likes please share it but this is what was suggested when setting my tank up and it worked.

[spike]

would the eaisest solution be getting a strong watt globe and then just hook it it up to a thermostat??

[Pooka]

I have never used a thermostat or rheostat but I can easily see how either of them might work with a bit stronger wattage bulb. I would think a rheostat might be better for the dragoins basking light as they require a contstant overhead heat/light source when trying to digest food. A thermostat might get a bit hot and shut the light off for intervals messing with the dragons digestion. I have no idea if this would present an issue or not though.

[Zippy]

Actually I read that the Australian Water Dragon tempature has to be a bit lower than a Green Water Dragons tempature.

[spike]

I wouldnt have a clue how hot the CWD's temp has to be, about 84-88 on the cool end, and im gonna have mine at 95-100 on the hot end. Where i seen them in the wild, thats about how hot it gets...

[dragosmom]

A ceramic emitter on a rheostat wil allow you to adjust your lower temperature gradient to an acceptable temp and then use various wattage basking spots to adjust your high end temps. The CE's last for up to 5 years and are available in various wattages. In the U.S. a rheostat and CE will run about $40.00 I will ask some Aussie owners on repticzone about daytime/nightime temps. There area couple of Aussie owenrs on that board. I love the fact that you are spending so much time getting everything right before you get your AWD. I'll post back when I get the info.

[Pooka]

Sounds like you have thr ight temps to me Spike (may wanna tweak both sides down a few degrees if you notice your Dragons getting a bit dehydrated) Right now I have a 65watt generic flood light (for house track lighting) on one side of the cage and its keeping the high point on that side at 86 and the low point at about 82-83. Then on the other side I have a reptile basking spot lamp wich is aimed at an angle to fall on the pool and part of it on a high branch. The branch is about 92 degrees or so. The coolest part of my viv is 78 degrees and thw hole thing drops to about 76 at night. Dragosmom offers an excellent suggestion, a ceramic emitter will last a long time and coupled with a rheostat can handle all your winter and summer heating needs I wish I would have just done it rght and forked up the cash for one right off the bat.

[Zippy]

[glow=red,2,300]Sorry[/glow] I completely misread my book . It just says you have to keep the two-month rest period tempature lower than a green water dragons.

[dragosmom]

That's O.K. Thanks for posting back that the info was wrong. I still haven't heard from my other board, but they will post back eventually.

[dragosmom]

Spike: I have read 3 different care sheets on Eastern Water Dragons and list the same heat and care requirements as the Chinese (Asian) Water Dragon.
This care sheet is from someone in Australia and gives the temps in Centrigrade.

Again, I commend you on the research you have done prior to purchasing your new water dragons!

www.mark.org.au/pages/cs_waterdragon.htm

[spike]

Thanks dragosmom... I just didnt' want to stuff it up like i did with the beardies . A rheostat.... i havent heard about them before, i know pooka posted something about them in another thread to me. but i wasnt sure what it was

[Pooka]

A rheostat is basically used as a poor mans thermostat. Not all wattages of heating elements or bulbs will heat all enclosures equally so a rheostat works almost like a light dimmer switch for your house and cuts off flow of electricity to the element/bulb thereby lowering heat out put.

www.herpsupplies.com/product.cfm?id=SZMRT10

There is a link to one. It basically is used like an extension cord with it going to the wall and your heat source or lamp being plugged into it. Hope that clarifys